Essaouira is a coastal city in Morocco known for its unique culinary landscape that blends traditional Moroccan flavors with fresh Atlantic seafood and French influences. Whether you are looking for a casual meal at a port-side stall or a refined dinner in a historic riad, the city offers a wide variety of dining options. This guide provides a straightforward look at the different types of restaurants in Essaouira and how to find the best food during your visit.
The Seafood Experience at the Port
One of the most iconic dining experiences in Essaouira is eating at the seafood stalls located near the entrance to the port. These stalls offer the freshest catch of the day, often brought in by local fishermen just hours before being served. The atmosphere is casual, outdoors, and focused entirely on the quality of the fish.
When dining at the port stalls, you typically follow a specific process to ensure a good meal. You can select your own fish or shellfish from the display, which is then weighed to determine the price. Common options include sardines, sea bream, calamari, shrimp, and lobster.
- Check the freshness: Look for clear eyes and bright gills on the fish.
- Confirm the price: Always agree on the total price per kilogram or per plate before the cooking begins to avoid confusion.
- Keep it simple: Most stalls grill the fish over charcoal and serve it with simple sides like bread, salad, and tomato salsa.
Traditional Moroccan Dining in the Medina
The heart of Essaouira’s food scene is found within the walls of the medina. Here, you will find a mix of small, family-run “snacks” and more formal restaurants housed in converted traditional homes. These establishments focus on staple Moroccan dishes that are slow-cooked and rich in spice.
Tagines are the most common item on medina menus. These are slow-cooked stews named after the conical clay pot they are cooked in. Popular varieties in Essaouira include lamb with prunes, chicken with preserved lemons and olives, and the local specialty: fish tagine made with fresh Atlantic catches.
Couscous is another staple, though it is traditionally served primarily on Fridays. If you wish to eat authentic couscous, look for restaurants that advertise a Friday special. Many smaller local spots may only serve it on this day of the week.
Key Dishes to Look For
- Sardines: Essaouira is one of the world’s largest processors of sardines. They are often grilled with sea salt or stuffed with chermoula (a herb and spice marinade).
- Pastilla: A savory-sweet meat pie made with layers of thin pastry. While traditionally made with pigeon, many Essaouira restaurants offer seafood or chicken versions.
- Zaalouk: A cooked eggplant and tomato salad that is commonly served as a starter with fresh bread.
- Bissara: A thick, hearty soup made from dried fava beans, usually topped with olive oil and cumin, and popular for breakfast or a quick lunch.
International and Fusion Options
Due to its history as a French protectorate and its popularity with international travelers, Essaouira has a significant number of restaurants offering non-Moroccan cuisine. These spots are ideal for those looking for a break from traditional tagines.
You will find several high-quality French-Moroccan fusion restaurants that combine local ingredients with European cooking techniques. These establishments often provide a more formal dining environment and may have a more extensive wine list than local eateries. Italian cuisine is also well-represented, with several pizzerias and pasta houses located near the main squares.
Vegetarian and vegan travelers will find Essaouira more accommodating than many other Moroccan cities. Many modern cafes in the medina specialize in plant-based options, offering creative salads, veggie burgers, and meat-free versions of traditional Moroccan soups.
Rooftop Dining and Scenic Views
Many of the best restaurants in Essaouira are located on rooftops, providing views of the Atlantic Ocean or the bustling medina streets below. These spots are particularly popular during sunset. Because the city is known as the “Windy City of Africa,” many rooftop terraces are equipped with glass partitions or indoor seating areas to protect diners from the breeze.
When choosing a rooftop restaurant, consider the time of day. Lunch on a terrace can be very warm, while dinner may require a light jacket. Most rooftop establishments offer a mix of Moroccan and international dishes, often at a slightly higher price point due to the view.
Breakfast and Cafe Culture
Breakfast in Essaouira is a relaxed affair. Many locals visit small cafes for a simple meal of coffee or mint tea accompanied by Moroccan breads. You can find “Msemen” (a flaky, square pancake) and “Harcha” (a semolina griddle cake) at many street stalls and cafes.
A local specialty often served at breakfast is “Amlou.” This is a thick dip made from toasted almonds, argan oil, and honey. It is highly nutritious and unique to this region of Morocco. Most hotels and riads include these items in their breakfast service, but visiting a local cafe provides a more authentic experience.
Practical Tips for Dining in Essaouira
To have the best experience while dining out, it is helpful to understand local customs and practicalities. Following these simple steps will help you navigate the restaurant scene with confidence.
- Tipping: Tipping is expected but not mandatory. In casual spots, leaving a few dirhams is sufficient. In mid-range to high-end restaurants, a tip of about 10% is standard.
- Alcohol: Morocco is a Muslim country, and many local restaurants do not serve alcohol. However, many establishments catering to tourists do have licenses to serve beer, wine, and spirits. If you want a drink with your meal, it is best to check the menu or ask before being seated.
- Water: It is recommended to drink bottled water rather than tap water. Most restaurants will offer large or small bottles of mineral water.
- Reservations: For popular rooftop spots or high-end riad restaurants, making a reservation a few hours or a day in advance is a good idea, especially during the peak summer season or during the Gnaoua World Music Festival.
- Payment: While larger restaurants accept credit cards, many smaller cafes and seafood stalls are cash-only. Always carry enough Moroccan Dirhams for your meal.
Conclusion
Dining in Essaouira is a highlight for many visitors, offering a blend of fresh ingredients and traditional recipes. By exploring the seafood stalls at the port, the hidden kitchens of the medina, and the modern rooftop cafes, you can experience the full range of the city’s flavors. Remember to try the local sardines and always confirm prices at casual stalls before you eat.
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