Narita is widely recognized by travelers as the gateway to Japan due to its international airport. However, for domestic visitors and food enthusiasts, Narita is equally famous for its long-standing tradition of serving high-quality unagi, or grilled freshwater eel. Located just a short train ride from the airport, the town of Narita offers a culinary experience that has been perfected over centuries.
If you are planning a visit to Narita-san Shinshoji Temple, enjoying a meal of unagi is considered an essential part of the pilgrimage. This guide provides everything you need to know about the history of Narita unagi, where to find the best restaurants, and how to make the most of your dining experience.
The History of Unagi in Narita
The tradition of eating unagi in Narita dates back to the Edo period (1603–1867). During this time, Narita-san Shinshoji Temple became a popular destination for pilgrims traveling from Edo (modern-day Tokyo). The journey was long and physically demanding, and pilgrims needed a source of stamina to complete their trek.
Because Narita is located near the Tone River and Lake Inba, fresh eel was once abundant in the local waters. Eel is naturally high in protein and vitamins, making it the ideal “stamina food” for tired travelers. Local residents began serving grilled eel to visitors, and the association between Narita and unagi was firmly established. Today, while most eel is sourced from specialized farms to ensure quality and sustainability, the traditional preparation methods remain unchanged.
Where to Find the Best Unagi in Narita
The heart of Narita’s unagi culture is the Omotesando, a winding, 800-meter-long approach road that leads from the train stations to the entrance of Shinshoji Temple. This street is lined with traditional wooden buildings, many of which are historic restaurants that have been serving eel for generations.
Walking down Omotesando is a sensory experience. You will often see chefs skillfully preparing eel in front of the shops, and the sweet, savory aroma of charcoal-grilled fish fills the air. Here are three of the most highly regarded establishments in the area:
1. Kawatoyo
Kawatoyo is perhaps the most famous unagi restaurant in Narita. It is housed in a beautiful, three-story wooden building that dates back to the early 1900s. Kawatoyo is known for its “freshness first” philosophy; the eels are prepared only after they are ordered. You can often watch the chefs skillfully cleaning and skewering the fish near the entrance. Their sauce is a closely guarded secret, passed down through generations, offering a balanced flavor that is neither too sweet nor too salty.
2. Surugaya
Located right next to the main gate of Shinshoji Temple, Surugaya is known for its premium quality and meticulous preparation. They use high-grade charcoal to grill the eel, which imparts a distinct smoky flavor and a perfectly crisp exterior while keeping the meat tender. Surugaya is often praised for its consistency and the elegance of its dining space, making it a favorite for those looking for a slightly more formal atmosphere.
3. Kikuya
Kikuya has a long history and is famously known as a place where members of the Japanese Imperial family have dined. This restaurant offers a very traditional atmosphere and a wide menu that includes various sets. It is a great option for those who want to experience authentic Japanese hospitality (omotenashi) alongside their meal. Their unagi is known for being exceptionally soft and flaky.
Understanding the Menu: What to Order
When you enter a Narita unagi restaurant, the menu might seem specific if you are unfamiliar with eel dishes. Most places focus on a few core preparations. Understanding these terms will help you choose the meal that best suits your appetite.
- Unajyu: This is the most common way to serve unagi. The grilled eel is placed on a bed of rice inside a traditional lacquered box (jyu). It usually comes with a side of pickles and a clear soup.
- Unadon: Similar to Unajyu, but served in a round ceramic bowl (donburi). Typically, Unadon has slightly less eel than Unajyu and is often the more affordable option.
- Shirayaki: This is eel grilled without the sweet tare sauce. It is seasoned only with a bit of salt and served with wasabi or soy sauce. This style allows you to taste the natural flavor of the fish.
- Kimosui: A clear soup made with the liver of the eel. It is considered very nutritious and is almost always served as a side to Unajyu. It has a mild, clean taste.
Most restaurants offer different “grades” of Unajyu, often labeled as Nam (standard), Jo (superior), or Tokujo (deluxe). The difference in price usually reflects the quantity or size of the eel fillets provided, rather than a difference in the quality of the fish itself.
The Preparation Process
In Narita, the unagi is prepared in the Kanto style (Eastern Japan style). This process involves three distinct steps that ensure the eel is incredibly tender. First, the eel is sliced open along the back, cleaned, and skewered. Second, it is lightly grilled over charcoal. Third, it is steamed to remove excess fat and soften the meat. Finally, it is dipped in sauce and grilled again to create a rich glaze.
This steaming step is what differentiates Narita unagi from the Kansai style (Western Japan), where the eel is grilled directly without steaming, resulting in a crunchier texture. The Kanto style is preferred in Narita for its melt-in-your-mouth quality.
Practical Tips for Your Visit
Because Narita unagi is so popular, especially on weekends and holidays, a little planning can go a long way in ensuring a smooth experience. Here are some practical tips for your visit:
- Use the Numbered Ticket System: Popular restaurants like Kawatoyo use a numbered ticket system (seiriken). When you arrive, go to the front of the restaurant and take a ticket from the machine or the staff. You can then walk around the shops or visit the temple while you wait. Many restaurants have QR codes on the tickets so you can check your place in line on your phone.
- Visit on Weekdays: If possible, visit on a Tuesday, Wednesday, or Thursday. The Omotesando can become extremely crowded on weekends and during the New Year period, leading to wait times of two hours or more.
- Check Closing Times: Many unagi shops in Narita close relatively early, often around 5:00 PM or whenever they run out of fresh eel for the day. It is best to plan for a lunch visit or an early dinner.
- Budget Accordingly: Unagi is considered a delicacy in Japan. A standard Unajyu set typically costs between 3,500 and 6,000 yen. While it is a premium meal, the quality and tradition involved make it a worthwhile investment for many travelers.
Conclusion
Enjoying unagi in Narita is more than just a meal; it is a connection to centuries of Japanese history and craftsmanship. By visiting the historic Omotesando and choosing one of the town’s established restaurants, you can experience a dish that has sustained travelers for generations. Whether you prefer the classic Unajyu or the simple flavors of Shirayaki, the tender, charcoal-grilled eel of Narita is a culinary highlight that should not be missed.
If you found this guide helpful, consider exploring our other articles on Japanese food culture and travel tips to make the most of your next trip. You can find more information on local delicacies and historical sites across Japan on our main categories page.